Bhaktapur Durbar square after the earthquake
After hearing a lot on social media and seeing pity videos
of “Bhaktapur after earthquake” I decided to go take a short motorbike trip,
with my friend and look around to check its authenticity. I wouldn't like to go
on the contrary, as the videos were shot concurrently at the time for quake but
would like to request the owners of the video should try and visit Bhaktapur
and update the recent status of the periphery. Let me tell you my findings
after walking and talking to the local authorities, locals and the vendors.
First thing the entrance of the Durbar square still has a
huge pile of rubble left from the prehistoric mud and brick gate but once we
enter the durbar square periphery you will see it clean and ready to welcome
guests. Not to forget that this vicinity I am writing about at the moment dates
back to over 300 years and making hypotheses about not seeing the distress is
completely a hypothesis itself.
The museum suffered a major hit which is why only one of the
buildings and only two stories are open and not much can be seen. Entering the
museum itself is a big confront when you will see huge wooden logs nailed in
the earth supporting the brittle infrastructure but we dug it. We went in and
harked the childhood memories of field trips that my school had organized when
I was in grade 4, this was the first time in almost 15 years. There were couple
of temples which had been rooted off and they are Vatsala temple, Narayan
temple and one another with a complicated newari name but other than that I
found it very comparable to the ambiance to that of before earthquake.
After walking for almost an hour, we decided to take a break
from one of the best yoghurt and Kulfi (traditional Nepalese ice-cream) stops.
We had 2 each yoghurts and one each
Kulfi’s and decided to chat with the owner as we didn’t see much traffic in the
store as it usually used to be. Dinesh Babu Hada,51, the shop owner also known
with the alias “the kulfi King” relayed “I don’t know what foreigners are
afraid of and I though they are the adventurous one” and he laughed and shared
his story of the day of quake. He had a huge smile on his face and was positive
about the fact that he did not die and his customer will someday return to him,
particularly his Chinese friends who loved his dry meat products.
After cooling off we headed to Nyatapole; 5 storied temple,
which I had thought had fallen the first but luckily hadn’t. I saw young
national visitors, not in huge number but remarkable, whereas on the other hand
I as well saw an excavator cleaning the rubble. Despite the devastation,
clogged alleys and shattered houses, the inhabitants have gotten back to
regular life and have opened up their businesses on the divergent I was somehow
concerned by worn out Chinese red cross tents. We were window shopping and
suddenly a young man named Krishna Mohan Karmacharya, 36, painter invited us to
his store hoping we would buy some of his paintings out of a hope but instead
we offered him to ask some questions and he agreed. All we asked was “what do
you want the world to know about Bhaktapur?” and he replied “come down here and
see what is happening! It is absolutely normal and if it had not been I and all
these people wouldn’t have been here and the houses that are annihilated are
the ones which were not refurbished at the time of great earthquake century
back”.
Pottery square was hit the hardest, that’s a personal
perception but more than the devastation of quake what I saw was pretty
amazing. A group of people making fresh clay pots, painting the ones that had
been already given a shape and above all they were playing a local game called
‘pasa’. The instantaneous scars of earthquake is not immense the consequences
are not the broken houses, deceased member in the family is not as prominent
compared to the a economical toll they might face in the near future due to the
false donation oriented, sorry looking campaigns.
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