My first hand Everest experience
I could feel my heart beat out loud, felt like it was in my
mouth, thoughts looming as soon as a tiny bit of cloud seen under the blue sky.
It does not happen like that usually but I was flying to Lukla for the first
time; Lukla an airport with a runway of size 460m is ranked as World’s most
dangerous airport time and again which is why I could feel the adrenaline. From
my seat of the small dornier aircraft I could see the open cockpit and further
outside the windshield. I had a chance to see the pilot view of the airstrip;
it looked smaller than the alley I play cricket back at home. Lukla or Tenzing
Hillary airport which is very prone to weather is also well known for
fatalities amongst the Nepalese and the tourists. It was the most horrendous
flight I had taken in my life till the day. Thanks god we touched down with no
problems in Lukla.
As we had a lot of distance to cover in short time and had a
budget of economical nomad we decided to head further north closer to our
destination. Before continuing with further north let me first tell you about
Lukla. According to my analysis, Lukla is a very small village with barely
about 100 houses which was built for a purpose of serving the Tourists.
Restaurants, small grocery stores, local pubs and some trekking equipment
stores, money exchange were some biggest business in the town.
We trekked further north from Lukla, same day, deciding not
to stay there to cut some cost; we trekked 7-8 hours to reach our next stop
Namche Bazaar. We could not walk faster
as we wore no trekkers; we rested more than we walked on the trails. We arrived
Namche Bazaar; a town which was settled on the edge of hill which looked like
landslide century ago formed a possibility for people to build house and inhabit.
It was a terraced landscape, a type of landscape in Nepal where all I have
witnessed till the day was rice paddy. We called it a day and the first thing I
remember doing was getting drunk. We drank saying we need to keep ourselves
warm which later on became the wish to drink more because that’s what we did
whenever we spent time with friends. Later on next day we realized that the
major chunk of the budget which we were supposed spending wisely while on the
trek was spent eating local rooster and booze.
Based on what we read on tripadvisor and lonelyplanet and no
other than Google all we had was 4 different maps and our rucksack and our
crazy heads. There is no way you could miss the trail and head towards wrong
direction as the major chunk of traffic in the Everest region is primarily
headed towards the same direction. In between walking we made sure if we wore
on the right track asking groups of people passing by. The only names or big
names on the trek I remember is of 2 gompas; gompa means monastery in Tibetan
language. The reason why I remember two gompas is because one of them held so
called skull of mythical Himalayan animal named Yeti and the other one was the
biggest monastery in the region of Khumbu.
I would say over all the trek was beyond what we thought it would
be. There were few things we underestimated about the trek before we started
trekking, which we regretted a lot while on the trails. Amongst the things that
I personally regretted was making assumptions that I am on a regular workout schedule
so trekking 5-6 hours a day would be piece of cake, second I can trek with
12-13 kgs of backpack and the only weight of my bag was 7kgs and the worst of
all I would basically know when altitude sickness will kick in. I don't want to
remember what happened, I prayed every time I saw even a small elevation
because I had no will to climb any further since our first hike from Lukla, my
shoulders hurt like anything from the very first night till next couple of days
which could even be pacified by painkillers, third I had altitude sickness from
Periche which is around 4300 meters. Altitude sickness is the worst kind of
feeling or thing to happen, I had nasal pain at all times, had a severe
headache. We all stayed back at Periche for the next two days eating garlic,
lukewarm water and the Timmur we had. Timmur is a kind of spice that Nepalese
people use while cooking food.
Altitude sickness did not hold us back, we recovered, we
started walking ahead again. We played cards through out, sometimes it was call
break, sometimes it was some German game we learnt over the internet, sometimes
we were just sticking up cards on our forehead and made our own game. We played
with the tea house lodge owners, with the by passers, with the farmers, with
the headers, with the trekkers, you name it. We shared sex stories, cracked
vulgar joke, remembered our crushes, made arm pit farts, made the real farts
did all crazy stuff. It was the 14th day we saw some people who
started climbing up towards the base camp had started walking down, we still
hadn’t made it to the base camp, and we even laughed to ourselves for that. I
made many foreign friends who I never spoke to, who I do not have contact even
in social media. I have crazy memories
from the trip I remember many people and many faces, beautiful Elizabeth from
UK, Philip, the royal Enfield explorer from
Australia who was 64 but still passionate.
Something we laugh till the day is about the length of the
trekking. I mean usually Everest base camp is usually completed within 12 days but it took us
around 18 days. The others usually lose huge amount of weight after a lengthy trek but we lost
only couple. Almost every one of us had a severe cold and flu as a result of
altitude sickness which lasted for almost a week after the trek. I would like
to thank the guide provided from one of our friend’s agency named wonderful
Everest view treks and expedition (www.budgettrekking.com)
who showed us around. The fun and frolic guide who turned out grumpy towards
the end was to be honest a very good guy who got mad because of the time we
consumed from his schedule. The friends of Wonderful Everest view treks and
expedition now are a working partner of mine and we still enjoy trekking in
Nepal every once in a while.
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